CAPTAINS LOG
TWO BAYS PROJECT
JANUARY 2007

Welcome to “Two Bays”

Two Bays is a marine science and community engagement program designed to highlight the links between catchment-based activities, water quality and the health of our bays.

On board Pelican 1, a comprehensive survey is being undertaken by EPA scientists, using continuous underway monitoring of key water quality indicators within Port Phillip Bay and Westernport.

A series of pier visits by Pelican will provide communities around both bays with opportunities to meet our team and learn more about the research and monitoring. Scientists will be on hand to discuss ways of improving our water quality and protecting the natural and cultural value of our Bays. Parks Victoria rangers will also be available to share information about the Marine Parks in both bays.

Two Bays is a Pelican Expeditions initiative supported by Parks Victoria, and EPA Victoria, in partnership with the Port Phillip and Westernport Catchment Management Authority, the Victorian Coastal Council, Melbourne Water, People and Parks Foundation, Coast Action / Coastcare and the Marine Discovery Centre, Queenscliff.

January 3, 2007
10.00 am Pelican is tied up at St Kilda Pier. Tall, coloured banners are bending and moving in the wind all along the pier. They symbolise the sea grass beds that are the home of the weedy sea dragon. Weedy himself (a giant puppet version) is on the pier sticking his nose into everything. A small girl is invited to pat and cuddle the giant puppet as it towers over her. The message is clear. People are encouraged to cherish our delicate marine habitats and look after all the creatures that live there.

Weedy Sea dragon overlooking the Launch of Two Bays

Pelican Expeditions and Parks Victoria are launching Two Bays. A number of speakers, traditional owners, the media and guests are crowded in the shade of Pelican’s central deck. The project is formally welcomed to the lands of the Kulin nation. Speeches are made. We have the pleasure of Janet Bolitho, Mayor of St Kilda, MC ing the event. She introduces our guest speakers. Carolyn Briggs, Elder of the Boonerwrung people, Dianne James, Chairman of the Victorian Coastal Council and Patrick O’Callaghan from Parks Victoria. Port Phillip Bay water is ceremonially spread on Pelican’s deck and the crowd is taken for a circuit of the harbour. Two Bays is officially launched. The weather is beautiful and it feels like a good beginning to the project. Guests are invited to sail with Pelican to witness the monitoring first hand in the coming days. Many express interest in taking up this option.

After the launch, Randall Lee and Guillaume Martinez scientists from EPA, spend a couple of hours fine tuning their equipment. By 1500, Pelican is steaming down Port Phillip Bay, bound for West Channel, Point Nepean and an anchorage for the night just inside Port Phillip heads. By 1700 the wind backs to ESE and we raise sails. As we sail, bay water is pumped through a series of instruments and water quality is monitored constantly.

In particular we are testing for temperature, salinity, reactive phosphorous along with pH, chlorophyll-A, turbidity (suspended matter) and dissolved oxygen levels. This data is combined with time, date and position data to build a surface map of water quality. The data allows scientists to identify catchment inputs such as river outflow, runoff, storm water, and industrial discharge. These inputs combine with wind, tides and currents to produce patterns of mixing in coastal waters. Constant monitoring as we travel enables the scientists to build a current picture of this mixing. By combining this picture with other data such as rainfall, industrial or farm runoff, discharge of waste, tidal and wind data a detailed analysis of the health of the bays as it relates to settlement, water and land use can be developed.

Since 1986 EPA has maintained fixed site monitoring throughout the two bays where data is collected all year round. EPA, in partnership with Melbourne Water, is developing numerical bay-models that link to water catchment models (i.e. land based data collection, managed by Melbourne Water). The data collected on the Two Bays project will add significantly to models that are being developed and serve to verify and detail the data collected from permanent testing stations. It will assist scientists to run simulated scenarios, which will answer resource management questions. What are the environmental effects of in-bay activities such as aquaculture, shipping, dredging, recreation, as well as catchment loading from land clearing, increased residential or agricultural development. Conversely what are the improvements with increased wetland re-vegetation or planting programs that are specifically designed to clean and filter runoff in sensitive catchment areas?

Guillaume Martinez and Randall Lee, our resident oceanographers from the EPA.

January 4
We spend a night at anchor in the beautiful Nepean Bay Marine Park. The whole region near Port Phillip Heads is relatively pristine and noted for its complex bio diversity. Pelican is streaming from her anchor chain as a strong tidal flow from Port Phillip Heads alternately pulls us towards and pushes us away from the waters of Bass Strait. In certain conditions this area can be subject to a shore break as ocean swells curve around Corsair Rock and push into the bay.  At 0815 after a quiet breakfast on deck we raise anchor and detour via Portsea to pick up Tim Rogers, Mayor of Mornington Peninsula Shire Council. We make our way through Port Phillip Heads and set a course for Cape Schanck, Flinders and Westernport Bay. As Mayor, Tim is directly in touch with development, planning and debate throughout the region. It is good to know that the council is taking the environmental issues seriously and that the mayor is committed to learning first hand about water quality issues that are so vital to the region.

At Gunnamatta, we draw close in to monitor the sewerage outfall. Not surprisingly our instruments show a dramatic spike. Salinity plunges where the outfall dilutes the ocean water. Temperature and phosphorous levels rise dramatically. In the Northerly winds and flood tide the plume is visibly travelling SE along the coast with a harder edge (sharper increase) on the approach side. The scent of ammonia is noticeable on the wind. Surfers at the famous shore break nearby are currently giving the outfall a wide berth but will sometimes be seen close by when the area is working.

Gunnamatta outfall.

At 1320 we tie up at Flinders Pier. It is notable for the numerous weedy sea dragons living amongst its piles, its mussel vendors and a healthy population of tourists, locals and fisher people. Children and teenagers are leaping from the wooden planking into the clean oceanic water 3 or 4 metres below before climbing back up the rusted ladders and repeating the performance with loud shouts and laughter. Boats of all descriptions and colours are moored or plying the water nearby. We watch as an aluminium dinghy powers towards the beach with its lone occupant seemingly unaware of the rapidly approaching sand. Heads are turned and breaths are held all along the pier as the tinny crosses the last few metres of water at about 25 knots. The motor kicks up, the boat skids to a halt on the sand and the driver somersaults into the bow. Without a backward glance he gets up, steps out and struts up the beach seemingly oblivious to the cheers and amusement of the crowd as if he just wanted to keep his boots dry.

Mussel farmers at Flinders Pier.

The pier is the heart of summer culture at Flinders, as piers are in many places. Sadly the infrastructure is being run down due to a lack of available funds for Parks Victoria to adequately maintain this community resource.

Pelican is adorned with the sea grass banners, posters and handouts as people are invited aboard.  They come to learn about the Two Bays project, to talk about water quality and what they can do to help or just to have a sticky beak at the unusual vessel tied up at their pier. Our team is there to answer questions about the project, to ignite people’s interest and enlist their support and cooperation in looking after our precious water resources. Peoples concern and desire to help is palpable especially in these days of climate change, drought and water awareness. In an hour more than 60 people come aboard to talk to the scientists, to Parks Vic reps and to the Pelican team.

Mark Rodrigue from Parks Vic talking to visitors to Pelican on Flinders Pier.

January 5
We depart Flinders for Hastings. We sail under reefed main, mizzen and staysail in winds up to 30 knots. A series of sandy shallows extends southwards from Somers down the middle of the bay towards its western entrance. With large ocean swells entering the bay these banks can break heavily. Due to recent sustained northerlies, a legacy perhaps of cyclonic activity in North Western Australia, there is very limited swell in the bay and we enjoy an excellent sail directly to Sandy Point. From there we drop sails and motor in to Hastings where we tie up at the main jetty.

Randall, Guillaume and myself take one of the inflatables and go to Watson Inlet about 4 miles north to install some loggers for a couple of days static data collection. Watson inlet has routinely registered higher levels of pollutants/nutrients than most other areas in the bay, so the scientists are attempting to establish some of the causes by placing loggers at different sites along the inlet.

We return to Pelican in time for our next community session. About 30 people come aboard to speak to us as part of the community event in Hastings. People are extremely friendly and we are made to feel very welcome. The local yacht club gives us access to showers and toilets and many locals come down to chat. There is a dedicated band of concerned citizens who have fought for years for recognition of the importance of maintaining the diversity and health of local environments. These people are often a wealth of knowledge about local environmental issues, and their history. They play an important part in raising awareness of many of these issues. They often come to us in the hope of learning more from the testing being done and from talking to the scientists. At the same time they educate us about a range of local concerns and in many cases provide information that enhances the data we are collecting.

View from Hastings pier. Black swans feeding with industry close by.

January 6
Sea Search day. We set off at about 10.00 for Chicory Lane on the NW side of French Island. I am amazed to notice the depth of water in many parts of the bay. As a boy my main memories of Westernport are of dragging boats endlessly across mile upon mile of tidal mud flats. Therefore it is with some amazement that I observe, with the benefit of depth sounder and charts, that many parts of Westernport are in fact quite deep water. The other surprising fact to grab my attention comes from Randall who points out that the further into Westernport Bay we go the more saline the water becomes. My experience of most estuarine or coastal inlet systems is directly contrary to this. I learn that this is due to the relatively small amount of water flowing into the bay from surrounding catchment areas. The shallower waters trapped in the bay experience higher levels of evaporation. The unique tidal flow patterns of Westernport also mean that minimal mixing with oceanic water occurs with essentially the same water going in and coming out with each successive tide. The net result is significantly higher concentrations of salt in the upper reaches of Westernport Bay. This may also be exacerbated by the current drought.

Volunteers are prepared for entering the water by Rebecca Koss from People and Parks Foundation

We have about 30 volunteers aboard who have agreed to assist in a sea grass monitoring program. The People and Parks Foundation, an offshoot of Parks Victoria, run the Sea Search program. Our volunteers consist of an interesting bunch of people from a variety of organizations many with science or environmental backgrounds. Our aim today is to visually monitor and assess sea grass beds in the Chicory Lane channel. Unfortunately the weather has other ideas. Strong northerlies are forecast for the whole day. At low tide we are offered a degree of protection from the waves by the surrounding sand banks. With the flood tide however the fetch increases and we are buffeted by the legendary Westernport chop. This in turn muddies the water and the snorkelers very soon find themselves in zero visibility conditions.

Volunteers heading out into the murky waters around French Island.

The day however provides a useful catch-up for the people involved, a chance to share information and have a look at a unique part of Westernport. We hear some interesting talks from some of the experts on board including Denis Cox (Coast Action/Coastcare) and Thierry Rolland (Parks Vic ranger).

Denis Cox (CoastAction/Coastcare) speaking to the Sea Search volunteers.

Jan 7
The day has been set aside for more intensive data collection by the EPA scientists. By 0930 a small group of dedicated volunteers come aboard as observers and assistants in the days data collection. This group is drawn from people with strong connections to and knowledge of the area.  We travel to Watson Inlet once more and take a series of water samples at various points along several transects of the inlet. The sampling sites include very shallow water so it is impossible to do it from the main vessel. We anchor Pelican at the upper limit of the deeper water and do the work from the inflatables. At each sampling site, data is collected including salinity, temperature, chlorophyll, turbidity, and dissolved oxygen. The data will be analysed later as the samples are run through the sophisticated equipment aboard Pelican to test for reactive phosphates. This equipment is the latest technology available. The unit that Randall and Guillaume are using is a prototype designed and built at Monash University so they are among the first to use it in the field.

The weather is not being particularly cooperative as winds of up to 35 knots buffet us and make the work wet and uncomfortable. Despite this, all planned sites are sampled and we return to Pelican with a comprehensive set of new data. In addition Raff successfully dives to retrieve the loggers that we put out two days earlier.

Raf and Randall returning the loggers to Pelican.

While we are thus engaged a rescue boat appears from the marina nearby to see if we require any assistance. They must have wondered what people were doing out in such atrocious conditions in such a small craft. We assure them that we are OK and thank them for their trouble. We return to Pelican to warm up where we find the volunteers engaged in a bake off. Yum hot muffins and steaming mugs of hot chocolate and tea. Nothing could be better on a cold day.

Tucking into hot muffins at Yaringa.

Jan 8
We have decided to attempt a circumnavigation of French Island and intend to continuously monitor water quality as we go. I am nervous. The charts indicate that we will only have about 100 mm of water under Pelican’s keel as we cross the watershed on the NE side of the island at high tide. French Island becomes a peninsula every low tide as the mud banks on this side of the island dry completely. I am reminded of my childhood experiences here, stuck for hours on the mud. Consequently I choose a tide that will be followed by an even higher tide. In the event of a stranding the following tide should see us off and free. The turbid waters make us totally dependent on our charts or on feeling our way with depth sounder and keel scraping.

Early explorers to this region reported that behind French Island the water was clear and navigation of the channels could be accomplished by eye alone. If that is true something has definitely changed. Visibility in the turbid water is close to zero. But I needn’t have worried. The charted channels prove to be very accurate in terms of location and conservative in terms of minimum depth. Pelican’s keels at 1.3 metres draught never come closer than half a metre to the mud. As we travel the instruments record rising salinity and temperature, both peaking at the watershed. But we will have to wait for more detailed analysis of the data to draw more complex conclusions.

Terry Easy- Parks Vic Ranger of French Island, who travelled with us to Rhyll.

We continue on to Rhyll where we set up another community event. On this occasion, as before, a number of knowledgeable and motivated locals attend.  It is clear that many are concerned about the health of the bay, its animals and its sea grass beds that appear to be in decline. There is also a high level of concern over plans to dramatically extend deepwater port facilities in Westernport Bay.

Fisherman on Rhyll pier.

Jan 9
We depart Rhyll at 0600 with Mark Rodrigue from Parks onboard and set a course for Flinders. There we pick up several additional passengers including Ian Morgans from Port Phillip and Westernport Catchment Management Authority, Chris Chesterfield from Melbourne Water and Matthew Reddy from Landcare Australia. Parks Victoria, Dept of Sustainability and Environment, Dept of Primary industries, Local Governments and others were also represented on Pelican during Two Bays.  It is a vital aspect of the project that it enables people who work for the various government authorities and councils to have a direct experience of the Bays. Pelican provides an inspirational platform for direct observation. There are also many opportunities to meet scientists, locals, fisherman, tourists and other stakeholders of the region, to exchange ideas and ultimately to observe environmental policies and practises in action.

Leaving Rhyll with a bushfire sunrise behind us.

Flinders to Rye crew.

At Flinders pier we touch and go, steaming out of Westernport Bay.  As we turn SW for Cape Schanck we raise sail and are soon gliding silently along this beautiful coast. West of the cape we hug the shore closely sailing just outside the breakers. Once again EPA’s instruments show dramatic spikes as we pass through the plume flowing from the sewerage outfall at Gunnamatta Beach. The conditions are calm as we coast towards Port Phillip Heads then hoist main and mizzen for the beat to Rye Pier where we conduct another open event at 1700.

Rounding Cape Schank from land ...	and sea.

Pier event at Rye.

Mark Rodrigue from Parks Vic shows and talks about two live sea horses that have just been captured under the pier by Guillaume. They are found there in surprisingly large numbers. He places them in a bucket of salt water with some rocks and weed and they provide a fascinating attraction for many people to observe during the next hour. After this they are gently returned to their pile under the pier. Most of our visitors on this occasion are holidaymakers. Many of them come initially to look at Pelican or the seahorses but find themselves drawn into discussions about water quality and the environment. Each of these public events has been different but they all have all demonstrated intense interest from a variety of people in these vital water quality issues.

Young boy, looking at our seahorse visitor on Pelican.

That night a nasty blow comes in from the north. We find ourselves on a lee shore and seek shelter by anchoring in the shallow water behind the new marina at Blairgowrie.

Jan 10
We’re off again by 0600, returning to Rye where we collect more water samples and pick up Phillip Wierzbowski, one of the Coast Action/Coastcare Facilitators for the Port Phillip region. Phillip will join us for the day. Rye is one of the bays environmental hot spots with consistently high levels of pollutants. The sampling is designed to help the scientists understand the causes. We deliver the samples ashore to another team from EPA who will rush them to the lab in Melbourne while they are still fresh. We set a course for Williamstown motoring all day, hugging the eastern shore of Port Phillip Bay in hot glassy conditions. Our monitoring equipment is working continually as we cross numerous small creeks, drains and as we pass by coastal developments of all kinds. Our data when collated with position should produce some interesting maps of coastal mixing and help to create a clearer picture of the health of our precious bay.

One of the Pelican crew resting on the way to Williamstown.

By 1700 we are open to the public once again this time at Gem Pier in the heart of Williamstown. Hot, blustery northerlies are giving the many small boats a challenging circuit as they race around the buoys. Everyone is out and about. Many of the staff from the Parks Vic Office nearby drops in to see us, to find out first hand how it’s all going. By 1815, after fielding enquiries for 90 minutes, we are happy to retreat into the shade with a cool drink. It has been a long day.

Open day at Williamstown pier.

Jan 11
We depart Gem Pier about 0900 with the addition of Bruce Greenop from Melbourne Water and set a course for Geelong. The wind has decided, about the same time, to shift to the South West. We punch into the Port Phillip chop all day as we make our way around its western edge. Guillaume has been up since 0630 calibrating the instruments to make sure the data we collect is accurate. Randall and Guillaume are particularly interested in the outfall from the Werribee treatment plant. Once again we are hugging the coast and monitoring continuously. I can’t help but notice how dry the country looks. The You yangs appear baked brown and the once green shores of the bay appear to be crying out for water. Most water flowing into the bay at present is from the treatment plant but even the considerable a daily flow here is not enough to maintain overall bay salinity levels below those of the ocean. The shallow water makes for some anxious moments as Pelican hugs the shoreline motoring just outside the break where the waves are dumping on to the sand in about a meter of water.

Randall, Raf and Bruce observing Werribee outfall

Gannet flying near the entrance to Corio Bay.

The wind is consistently over 25 knots but by 1530 we are tying up at Alexander Thomson Pier in Corio Bay in front of the carousal. We do another open vessel session for the public and are again fortunate to attract a diverse crowd of highly motivated and interested people.

Randall, Skipper, Tom O’Connor, Ross Wissing and Mark Rodrigue at the Geelong event.

A huge ferris wheel, fifty meters high, currently dominates the Geelong waterfront. After it has closed for the night it continues to sport flashing lights resembling a fireworks display.

Jan 12
We make another early departure for the project’s last monitoring leg between Geelong and Queenscliff. On this leg, Ian Morgans from the Port Phillip and Westernport CMA, Patrick O’Callhagan, Viv Amenta and Mark Rodrigue from Parks Vic join us. Once again we hug the coastline. Between Portarlington and Queenscliff we pass inshore of a series of large mussel leases and pursue a kind of slalom course between numerous recreational fisher people in small boats. The sea grass beds here are renowned for their whiting fishing. Holidaymakers are frolicking along the beaches and the coast is lined with a series of small resort towns and weekenders. I can’t help thinking to myself how dependent everybody in this area is on water quality for both their livelihood and their quality of life.

Morning conference on Pelican between Geelong and Queenscliff.

At Queenscliff we again collect a series of water samples that are rushed off for immediate evaluation in Melbourne. Large tidal flows, local dredging and plans to greatly extend marina facilities in Queenscliff at the mouth of Swan Bay which is effectively a large, shallow tidal lake make testing an important tool in regulation and planning. Later in the afternoon we attempt to tie up at the old ferry jetty on the waterfront at Queenscliff. This has been taken over by fishermen who were very reluctant to share what they see as their own personal resource. A moderate SE chop makes it very uncomfortable to stay so we relocate our planned open display to the marina on the creek. As we clear the pier we collect several fishing lines that fishermen have refused to move which are unintentionally dragged into the water. I am shocked by their apparent inability to share a resource that can easily accommodate everyone.

Guillaume, with some of the EPA equipment, readying to leave the boat at Queenscliff.

Having relocated the event at the last minute there is a poor turn-up for the open deck event. Secretly Pelican’s crew are relieved. Ten long days without a break is starting to take a toll on all of us. I make a mental note to schedule a day off in future programs of this nature.
However we are happy to meet some of the people from the Marine Discovery Centre, who have come down to meet us and we also record an interview for 3CR.

Pelican crew and visitors after 3CR interview, Queenscliff.
Estelle Kefford, Karly Chan, Travis Lee, Aurora and Natalie Davey, Mark Rodrigue and Garry McKechnie.

Jan 13
After a good sleep we load volunteers for another day at sea. By 10.00 we are heading towards Mud Island Marine Park with over 30 Sea Search volunteers on board for a day’s exploration and monitoring of the seagrass beds in the waters on the SE side of Mud Island. The tide and wind are not in our favour and we are forced to anchor about 500 meters off and ferry everyone ashore in the inflatable. On this occasion the water is clear and the sea grass growing close to the bank seems vibrant and healthy. Pelican is sitting in about three knots of ebb tide and we decide that it is smarter to dive in the shallow water where the sea grass is plentiful and where people can easily swim to the shallows if they encounter difficulties. A Parks Victoria vessel arrives to assist with ferrying people to and from the beach and in no time we have more than 30 people happily snorkelling in the grass beds and conducting shore surveys by turns.

Seagrass at Mud Island with Pelican in the background.

Many of the volunteers are from groups such as “Friends of Mud Island” and other environmental interest groups, so it is a great opportunity for all of us to network and learn more about local issues and developments. The day slips by and before we know it its time to head back. On route we take a look at Chinaman’s Hat, which appears to be a luxury hotel for seals. They are lying luxuriantly in the shade as Mark Rodrigue gives us some history about their presence here. Closer to Queenscliff we pause at Popes Eye which originated as a fort to guard Port Phillip heads but has now become a marine reserve (I’m told it is the smallest Marine reserve in the world) and a Mecca for snorkellers and divers interested in observing the diverse marine life of the area.

After dropping our guests back at Queenscliff we say goodbye to all the crew from Parks Vic. The EPA scientists had departed the day before so we enjoy a quiet sail back to Melbourne with just the Pelican crew on board. Rafael, Estelle, Nick and myself are too exhausted to say much but are feeling very positive. We feel that the project has been a resounding success and are looking forward to making it even better next year.

I would like to express my thanks to all who worked so hard to make this a success. In particular I would like to thank Mark Rodrigue, Anthony Boxshall, and Franca Deluca from Parks Victoria, Randall Lee and Guillaume Martinez from EPA and Natalie Davey from Pelican Expeditions.

Happy Sailing
Garry McKechnie

Evening at Rhyll pier.

Pelicans near Swan Bay.